As a lot of you may know, we have been working to create a set of guidebooks for the rivers of the Texas Hill Country. This summer was supposed to be filled with survey float trips but with the drought, we ended up dragging our poor kayak just as much as paddling it. Then by the end of June the flows got so low that it became too difficult to continue. Of the rivers we had surveyed, the Blanco was the one we were closest to finishing. The only remaining section to cover was a section that contained a run that I began calling the “Dry Blanco”. At the time, all I knew was that for over 6 miles of this part of the river, the water will seep below the surface if the flow drops below a relatively high rate. So we waited and hoped for a tropical storm to flood Central Texas in the fall so we could float this section once and for all.
Like a lot of other folk, we were waiting for rain that would never come.
But the long and excessive drought opened another possibility. We knew the first 6 or so miles would be dry but based on some research of historical satellite imagery, the sectioned that continued down river to the next public access might have deep pools that would be impossible to wade across. It was a risk we were willing to take, even if we have to swim we would finally finish this section.
Loaded with several liters of water each, we set off just before sunrise.
It had rained in the area a couple of days before and we would pass over tiny puddles here and there that had formed in the downpour.
There were even a couple of small pools that hadn’t completely dried up yet. They did not appear to have anything living in them however.
The recent rain had also triggered a lot of wildflowers to bloom. It was odd, seeing such brilliant life springing forth in the middle of this desolate riverbed.
The hike was starting out fairly easy. For the most part we were crossing sections of flat slabs or small rocks and gravel. Given our speed, I began to think this might be an easy day.
As the sun began to climb, the humidity in the air became more apparent. This combined with random sections of rough terrain began to slow our progress even before it really started getting hot. I began to worry that my 3 liters would be insufficient. I knew it would be enough to make it safely but I really hate hiking with cottonmouth.
By the time we made it to The Narrows, it was only 7.6 miles into the hike and the heat was already starting to get to me. I was feeling old, fat and out of shape. None of which was untrue.
The sun was up high and reflecting off the light colored rocks. This combined with the humidity was making it feel a lot hotter than it actually was. Luckily, we had just arrived at The Narrows, like finding a oasis in the desert, we eagerly made our way down to its cool water.
As we descended, the dark pools below looked inviting but were almost black in color. I couldn’t decide just what was causing the visual effect. It was deep between narrow cliffs, perhaps the shadows were playing tricks? It didn’t appear the water was brackish.
When we climbed down to the bottom, it became obvious. The water appeared black because it was crystal clear and REALLY deep. I mean black hole deep. I didn’t know it at the time, but these were not separate pools but rather openings to large underwater cave system called pot holes. The water here was blissfully cold. I wanted to spend the rest of the day here exploring and just lounging about.
To illustrate the clarity of the water, compare this same gin clear water in an adjacent shallow pool to the color of the water in the pot holes.
I have no idea how deep the caves go but they do seem to shallow out the further we went down river.
After a hundred yards or so, the water picked up a green tint. We didn’t go down here but I assume that the water was warmer here.
The cliffs are actually an exposed coral reef that dates back to before the dinosaurs went extinct.
Just down river of The Narrows the landscape is far more lush than we had seen all day. Evidence that at least some water has been continually flowing.
- Another Wildflower (click to enlarge)
These wildflowers lined the river just below The Narrows.
Leaving The Narrows behind, we felt refreshed. We proceeded wading in ankle deep water down river for a while until the pool gave way to more rock and gravel. We assumed that this was the last of the water and the remaining hike would be relatively easy over dry river bed.
We could not have been more wrong.
What we found were pool after pool being supported by series of small trickling springs coming out of the limestone. Never enough to create a significant flow but just enough to keep the pools from drying up. Great for the fish and other animals that relied on the water. Bad for a couple of hikers trying to get from point A to B.
To make it worse, the terrain between the pools was getting increasing difficult, slowing us down even more.
Oh, and did I mention how hot it was? So its not like we felt the need to hurry through the pools anyway!
We never did have to swim but it came close. About 2 miles from the finish we had to hold our packs above our heads and just barely made it by wading.
All in all, it ended up being a 13.6 mile hike. We finally got the final piece to complete the Blanco River Guide despite the drought. If you want to know what’s its like to go from where we started that morning and hike the 7.6 miles to The Narrows, just watch the video below. You’ll get to make the trip in about 6 minutes!
Remember if you are thinking of traveling the Blanco River to the Narrows, the Blanco River Pocket Guide is available: http://pocketguides.www.texasriverbum.com/
A great followup read was written by Bret Cox: http://www.texasriverbum.com/narrows